Seinsheim, Lower Franconia, population 1000, home of what may be the smallest brewery in Franconia. Seinsheimer Kellerbräu is housed in the side of the town church, where self-taught Frank Engelhardt and family open the doors every Friday while they brew.
Frank attends to the boil over the course of a Friday afternoon, some days he tends to the operation himself if they are only making beer, serving mugs to the locals and travelers who manage to stop in. But some days they also bottle one batch as they boil the next, and the scene is hectic and humid and wet.
Their Danzbier Hell and Dunkles Kellerbier are malty, rich, rustic treasures of Lower Franconia. Highly caramelized from a long boil, a character found in some Zoiglbier (which are worthy of comparison here), and lagered for 5 to 6 weeks before being tapped directly from the conditioning tanks.
They sell cases reserved in advance, hand-bottled swing-tops, but the experience of the beer in the bottle does not compare to a draft pour that has not touched oxygen. These two lagers (or a Bockbier in the winter if you’re lucky) are well worth the hour-long drive from Bamberg, and a stay overnight is available at Seinsheim’s only hotel.