With the front entrance to Brauerei Heckel right on the street, not a meter from passing cars, it’s a gamble with your life to spill out into the street after a session.

Upon entering you may experience a most foul urinal cleaner aroma mixed with cigarette ash. Opening the second door to the Gästezimmer you may be greeted by 8 angry mugs, piercing their gaze confusingly into your soul, if you are a strange-looking person from another country.

I sat in a completely silent room with these old men darting their eyes around, the stale air broken by the occasional mumble or snicker. The act of smelling your beer draws notice in Franconia.

The eldest of the localss made his displeasure known, he did not enjoy seeing foreigners using electronic devices. As he passed our table he paused to hold the door open to grant us another moment with the eye-stinging toilet cleaner vapors concentrated in the hallway. With a throaty chuckle he showed us his contempt for our mobile devices.

In the back room a table of locals were more personable, loudly playing cards and gulping beer and willing to socialize, and even acting polite in the company of strangers.

After completing my review of the naturtrüb Vollbier hell (4.2) and chatting shortly with the braumeister, I said goodbye and stepped back out into the 21st century where I was promptly run over by a car.

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Michael James

BJCP-certified beer judge, photographer, and software developer from Boulder, Colorado. I use this site to chronicle my worldwide beer adventures shared through photography and stories, with a focus on traditional old world brewing practices.